Source: Greenopia
As an eagle-eyed greenwash fighter, I was recently drawn to investigate aspects of the eco fashion industry.
This expanding category includes fabrics like organic cotton, recycled polyester, peace silk, modal, and others, which either use less energy, fewer chemicals, or utilize existing resources. The clothing industry has a less than stellar reputation, known for both exploiting workers and polluting local communities with toxic chemicals from dying and processing of fabrics, so newer ecofabrics aim to cut reduce this onerous impact.
There are obvious examples of companies claiming they produce super eco friendly clothing (in reality they just sold cheap cotton t-shirts screen printed in China with various “Earth Power!” messages). But I was most intrigued by a new fabric trumpeted as the newest and hippest clothing component for the green brigade: bamboo.
People and designers have been claiming that one of the newest cool trends is clothes created from bamboo. (Pandas love it too!)
The Good
When bamboo is grown and processed properly, there's a soft and beautifully draping fabric to be had from the fibers. An added bonus is that bamboo is anti-microbial, which means that it won't get stinky (especially great for socks, underwear, and other items worn close to the body).
Bamboo forests are naturally sustainable, re-growing quickly and without the need for pesticides or herbicides, a huge advantage over cotton, which is drenched in chemicals from start to finish. Bamboo is easy to dye, easy to work, and one can make almost anything out of it, from pretty party frocks to workout wear.
The Bad
Of course, if you're an eco skeptic, you're probably trying to figure out which part of the bamboo plants produces fiber. Don't worry if you can't think of it. In fact there are no easily isolated fibers in bamboo like there are in cotton or wool. It's creating the fibers from the plant itself that are cause for calling bamboo clothes greenwash.
In most cases, bamboo fiber is created by soaking the wood in chemicals like lye, bleach and all sorts of other chemicals that too often end up in local water supplies. There are eco friendly ways to create bamboo fibers, but they're not quite so popular with manufacturers these days, who are looking more for profit than environmental friendliness as the economy worsens. However, some bamboo fabrics are produced this way, though unless the designer notes it on their own label, one can't be sure.
The Ugly
There are great risks involved with cheap bamboo fiber processing. Much of this work is done in China, where bamboo grows and environmental regulations, if they exist, are often unenforced. Processing in many cases is just pulping bamboo and treating it with lye and carbon disulphide. Both of which are dangerous to people, and both of which are difficult to dispose of safely. The people who work with these chemicals, i.e. the ones who make the bamboo clothing, (as well as the surrounding communities) can be devastated by exposure.
Bamboo is a sustainable plant, and it can be a sustainable fiber. However, if you want to make sure the clothes you're actually putting on your body are ecofriendly, then you'll have to be careful with sourcing your bamboo fiber clothing. Your best bet? Ask the designer or label about their processes. If they don't say they use the more sustainable process they probably don't, which makes their eco friendly claims iffy at best.
For more details, check out the Organic Clothing Blog's incredibly detailed analysis of bamboo fabrics.
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